Clearwater to Jasper

The drive was beautifully scenic, with plenty of stops for photos, especially around Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, Dome Creek and Mount Robson Provincial Park. Thanks to the lovely weather, we had clear, unobstructed views of the mountains, with only occasional clouds clinging to the peaks. It was amazing to see snow and ice on the mountaintops while we stood below in T-shirts.

Driving along this route included a time change of an hour. Luckily the phones and the car clock all managed the change automatically, so we did not have to worry about this. Having the time change in the middle of the afternoon felt so much better than when we alter the clocks during the night back in the UK.

Jasper

Driving into Jasper, we once again saw evidence of the devastation cause by the wildfires. The recovery is still going on after the wildfires in 2024. The drive into Jasper is a mass of construction and regeneration work. However, Jasper is still a beautiful and thriving town, with gorgeous mountain views. The other thing you see lots of her as well is the enormous cargo trains which take ages to pass and are impressive to see. My husband tried to count the containers on one and got to 1000, before he gave up, as the train was continuing through.

We dropped our bags at the Jasper Inn and Suites. The first sight of the hotel felt a bit disappointing, as we thought we would have a view of the mountains, but it was a really nice hotel with very comfortable rooms. It was only a 15-minute walk into town, which was a bustling place with lots of shops, cafés and restaurants, most of which were busy. We enjoyed the walk and a little sightseeing, particularly the indigenous exhibition in Athabasca Park, which is described as an example of Indigenous partners coming together with Parks Canada to work towards reconciliation. It is a beautiful art exhibition, but also makes you think about the origins of the land and the struggles of the indigenous nations.

As most places were busy, we booked in at the Malign Range Restaurant for our evening meal. After a quick shower and change we were back out for our meal and what a good choice we had made. The food was exceptional in flavour and presentation. The service was efficient and friendly. It wasn’t the cheapest of places, but it was worth the money for good quality well cooked food. We had another wander around town and then headed back to the hotel

Jasper to Banff

The next morning, we decided to set off early so that we could book in to the Athabasca Glacier before it got too busy. At 7am the roads were so quiet and peaceful So much so that after a few minutes, we were joined by an elk walking down the road. When it decided to cross the road in front of us, we stopped to let it pass, but it then waited in the road rather than passing. We didn’t want to alarm it so revered slightly allowed it to wander where it wanted, then set off again.

The drive along the Icefields Parkway was the highlight of my husband’s holiday and everything he thought Canada would be. The quiet sweeping roads, surrounded by mountains topped with snow and ice is just like it appears in the iconic pictures.

We went to the Columbia Icefields Discovery Centre and managed to book on the first bus going out that day. The first part of the journey is on the road via coach, to a drop off for the huge ice explorer vehicles which take you onto the Glacier itself. The guide was excellent, giving us lots of information about the area and the glacier. One we got off the explorer we were free to wander in a cordoned area of the glacier, ensuring safety and to protect the glacier itself. The air was so fresh and cool and with the sun shining, it was a magical experience. We took lots of photos and mingled with the other people who had travelled on our explorer. The only thing that marred the experience a little bit was someone who was filming for social media, who was very rude to other members of the group trying to take photos with family and friends. She had come on the same tour as us, but for some reason she felt she deserved more space and time than anyone else. However, she soon got the message when she realised she couldn’t bully us into moving out of the way.

After visiting the glacier, the tour takes you to the Columbia Icefield Skywalk, which is a glass-floored walkway suspended 290m above the Sunwapta Valley. It’s a very strange feeling walking across a surface where you can see a big drop below, but it was a great experience.

Back at the Discovery Centre, we had lunch and then continued our journey, stopping off at the stunning Mistaya Canyon and Peyto Lake. Both were busy spots, with a short walk for an amazing view. Mistaya Canyon is formed from thousands of years of swirling water eroding the rocks to create a canyon with water rushing below. Peyton Lake is an uphill walk to a viewpoint of the iconic crystal blue lake in the shape of a wolf’s head.

After having an amazing day seeing some wonderful sights, we made our way to our hotel for the next two nights, the Moose Hotel and Suites in Banff.